Making an Edwardian Dressing Gown 8: Lapels and Lining

Progressing now by leaps and bounds. Here we have the lapels and cuffs basted on:
Lapels

And here is the lining, all cut out and seamed together in its brief separate glory. A bold choice, tomato red! But this happens to be the fabric I have quite a lot of. Remember how this is a stashbuster project? Notice how I had to piece it together at the waistline. I was using an enormous taffeta skirt, partially assembled by some seamstress long ago and passed on to me in a vast huge box of remnants, partials, and UFOs (UnFinished Objects). There was enough of it to cut out all four pieces of the body (two fronts, two backs). The sleeves will be of the black lining material, but matching is less important for them, since nobody will ever see them. Whereas this red lining will probably show as I walk, or if I leave the garment unbuttoned. We shall be dazzling, or die for it.

Lining

For this garment I have just used the same pattern for the lining. The only omission will be the box pleat at the back, because it would add too much bulk. If the lining is unduly confining when I walk I may leave the seam open at the lower back, in a slit, for ease. But this may not be an issue, because I cut the skirts pretty wide already. I won’t know until the lining is inserted and I try the thing on.

So that’s the next step — attaching the lining to the body. This will happen at the center front, and on around the neckline. Sewing garments is an exercise in topology. How do you seam the thing to get the shape and surfaces you want? Think of this garment as a gigantic pillowcase. The sewn edges will be around the three sides (front edge, neckline, other front edge). The pillowcase opening will be at the bottom hem. The sleeve linings will be inserted as a separate step afterwards. In theory I can sew it like this, turn the garment right side out, and all three edges of the pillow case will be finished and nice. Fingers crossed! I have been wrong before, and that’s one heck of a lot of seam ripping.

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Making an Edwardian Dressing Gown 8: Lapels and Lining — 2 Comments

  1. Crossed fingers, but it is alreay looking splendid! Really you are going to look wonderful.

  2. The gown is starting to look great!
    I think I’d go with the slit in the lining in back, just to give that box pleat a chance to flash the dark material. That really sets off the gold so well!